Hair Colour by Skin Undertone: How to Find Your Perfect Shade

Why Your Skin Undertone Is Key to Choosing Hair Colour

Skin undertones generally fall into three primary categories: cool, warm, and neutral. They are created by a blend of pigments in the deeper layers of your skin – hemoglobin, melanin, and carotene. When your hair is dyed a shade that clashes with these deep tones, it creates aesthetic disharmony. Cool skin paired with overly warm, golden-orange hair can make the face appear overly flushed or dull, whilst icy ash shades on a warm golden complexion can accentuate dark circles and leave you looking tired.

To accurately identify your undertone before your next salon visit, try these three quick and reliable tests:

• The Vein Test: Look at the veins on the inside of your wrist in natural daylight. If they appear blue or purple, your undertone is cool. If they lean greenish or olive, your undertone is warm. If you see a mix of both and cannot easily tell, you likely have a neutral undertone.
• The Jewellery Test: Think about which metals make your skin glow. Silver, white gold, and platinum look striking on cool undertones, whereas yellow gold and brass add warmth and brilliance to warm undertones.
• The White Fabric Test: Hold a pure white towel or sheet of paper next to your makeup-free face in daylight. If your skin looks pinkish or bluish against the white, you are cool-toned. If it appears yellowish, peachy, or golden, your undertone is warm.

Cool Undertones: Shades That Refresh and Elevate

If your skin features cool undertones, you will look best in shades formulated with blue, violet, or cool ash pigments. For blondes, ash blonde, pearl, champagne, and icy platinum are magnificent choices that give the skin a fresh, clear finish.

For cool brunettes, dark chocolate, ash brown, espresso, and deep brown shades with plum or dark grape undertones are most flattering. If you prefer red shades, stick to berry-tinted tones such as burgundy, deep cherry, and cool mahogany.

• Ash blonde and pearl blonde – expertly soften natural facial redness.
• Cool chocolate and espresso brown – highlight light blue and green eyes while adding elegance.
• Platinum and champagne tones – create a striking, modern aesthetic contrast.
• Shades to avoid: vibrant golden yellows, bright coppers, and warm auburns, which can cause cool skin to look blotchy.

Warm Undertones: Shades That Bring Warmth and Glow

If you have a warm undertone, your colour palette should feature rich, golden, and radiant shades. Blonde options include honey blonde, golden blonde, butter blonde, and soft wheat. These hues reflect light beautifully and brighten your features.

Brunettes have wonderfully luxurious options to choose from. Hazelnut, warm caramel, golden brown, and milk chocolate add fullness and depth to the hair. Redheads with warm undertones can embrace a broad palette – from warm copper and cinnamon to rich amber and warm chestnut.

When opting for warmer shades of brown or blonde, always account for colour oxidation caused by sun exposure. Using hydrating hair masks regularly prevents warm tones from turning brassy or overly yellow.

Neutral Undertones: Balance and Colour Freedom

Balanced, muted tones work best for neutral skin. Beige blonde, soft hazelnut, and classic chocolate brown without heavy red or bright ash undertones deliver the most harmonious result. The secret is moderation – avoid extreme shades like stark icy blonde or fiery orange copper if you wish to maintain a seamless look.

Seasonal changes are effortless to embrace with a neutral undertone. In spring and summer, you can brighten your hair with subtle golden highlights, whilst in winter, switching back to a softer, cool-neutral tone seamlessly aligns with your winter wardrobe.

Highlights, Balayage and Face-Framing Tones

Preparing for the Salon and Home Care Routine

Before booking your appointment, it helps to understand whether you have a cool or warm undertone to help communicate your vision clearly. Showing photos in natural light is the best way to prevent misunderstandings about desired tones. To ensure a seamless consultation with your stylist, read our tips on how to tell your hairdresser what you want.

Once you achieve your ideal shade, proper home maintenance is essential to preserve the tone. Cool blondes and ash shades require periodic use of purple shampoo to neutralize natural brassy tones over time. For darker cool tones, blue shampoos effectively cancel out unwanted orange undertones.

Conversely, warm hazelnut, honey, and caramel tones require gentle sulfate-free shampoos and deeply nourishing hair masks rich in natural oils. Sulfates strip warm pigments quickly, so consistent hydration keeps every strand vibrant and shiny.